Having surfed the board several times in G-Land I was really comfortable on it and felt I could put the board where I wanted too with no hesitation. In 2007 I was doing a 6 month stay in Bali with My wife Leigh and baby Tommy. Not long after our arrival in May a massive red blob appeared on the WAM chart. I had been studying the Navy WAM charts for years trying to figure out what made G-land and its maze of sections work, so when I saw this thing I knew it was going to be big and really West. As the days got closer it was also becoming apparent that the winds were looking exceptionally light! Looking at the tides it was all pointing to Outside Corner.
It wasn't really that long ago, 2007, however if the same Swell had of appeared now the forecast would be splashed across all the surfing websites and social media feeds and “boom” instant crowd. There would have been lucky to be a handful of people that actually flew over for the swell so when it arrived there really wasn't too many people. There was a massive 2.5 meter high tide in the morning and I went down to check Ulu’s was already Massive 15ft plus and breaking from the Bomby right around the corner out of sight. Shaun Woolnough from Ulladulla paddled out and got a bomb on his own which was a really ballsy effort considering the cave would have been washed out completely.
I went down to Padang and it was maxed out, but as I walked down the cave a Warung got smashed and washed off the point, the lifeguards where screaming at everyone as a set rolled into the cave and up the stairs. It was really sketchy and I stayed and helped for a little while retrieving some valuable things and taking to higher ground. We grabbed the zodiac and wedged it up the stairs as another set lined up to take away anything on the beach.
That afternoon was lining up perfectly for Outside Corner with super low tides that come with the full moon. I still remember driving over the hill of the Bukit and seeing the lines of swell, single solid lines. I don’s think I have ever frothed this hard to get out into the line up as fast! The winds had died to a light trade and the swell was holding solid 12-15ft, dream come true!!
To say I had the session of a lifetime was an understatement, to that point and for many years after these were the most perfect big waves i had ever surfed. It was seriously like getting a water tennis court and tilting it from 45 to 90 degrees on its side! Needless to say AB’s 7’10 worked incredibly, just like it had been built for that session.