Piping precision on a P-Pass Platter

Big purple blobs

It was the sorta blob we live for. A big, purple blob, out in the middle of the Pacific. In fact, it was the same sort of blob that caused Shane Dorian, Mark Mathews and Dan Ross to lose their minds last year. And it was happening again.

This time around, the ingredients were a little different. That big ole blob of a storm on the swell charts looked as good, if not better than ASL’s last mission to this part of the world, although the window of opportunity looked worryingly small. Still, when ASL photog Andrew Shield pointed to the charts and we put out the call, everyone paid attention. Kelly wanted to know what the winds were like. Parko was wondering if he could wriggle out of his commitments back home. In the end, the hell-men (and woman) who made a b-line for the islands were Jamie O’Brien, Dylan Longbottom, Zahn Foxton, Ryan Hipwood, Joni Gillet and Rochelle Ballard, and all came back frothing on what they reckon were the best barrels of their life. The end result…. well, it doesn’t do it any justice for us to explain, so we’ll let them tell you.

Jamie O

The Hawaiian Charger needs little introduction. After surfing P-Pass a few years ago, Jamie swore to himself he’d return to what he describes as “one of the craziest barrels ever.” The heavy-wave guru packed his shooters and good mate Kawika Stillwell and hauled arse for barrel-wonderland. Between all the hooting and hollering down the phone line, here’s Jamie’s take on the place.

“At first the trip was pretty scattered. When Shieldsy first mentioned it, everybody and their mum seemed to be coming, and then as quick as they decided to come, they pulled out, which was waaaay better for us, because we got shacked off our nuts! (laughs). Hippo and I couldn’t decide if we were going to go or not, but then Hippo said he was locked in, and I was like fuck that! I’m not letting him get all the barrels!

I’ve surfed P-Pass once before, but it was only 3-5 feet. I made a promise to myself that no matter what, I would come back and surf it. It’s such a mental wave. The morning I got there, I was heading out to the wave in the boat and saw Zahn get the sickest, craziest slab of a wave that came out of the deep blue of the ocean and folded on the reef. He got beat pretty bad by that wave, but seeing that thing roll through just had me psyched. It’s actually a pretty easy wave to surf – I was surprised at how easy the take off is at that size. The six foot waves are super fun and no problem to make, but when it gets that little bit bigger and hits like eight feet, it dredges off the reef pretty crazy, and it’s really crucial to be in the right spot.

There weren’t that many of us out there, and each set had four to five waves to it, so we were getting sooo many waves. It was funny, I’d pull into a wave and just be so stoked and couldn’t believe how barreled I would get, and then I’d kick out and try my best to not claim it, and then turn around and see one of the other boys get absolutely shacked off their arse and I’d start hooting and claiming it for them. I’ve never been barreled so many times in one day.

It was all good ’till I went over the falls and hit my head on the reef and busted my ear drum. I was rattled; I snapped my board, got rag-dolled and was trippin’ out trying to swim in the water because my ear was gone. I got back to the boat, sat there for ten minutes in crazy pain, but couldn’t handle seeing everyone else get barrels, so I was like, fuck this, grabbed another board and went back out. It was a bit weird surfing at first, I didn’t have much balance, but I got into a rhythm and actually got a few big ones.

Rochelle? Rochelle was crazy! I don’t think I have ever seen a girl get so barreled. She was getting into a few medium ones early, but they just turned into the mutant drainers. She got some amazing waves; it was really cool to see a chick get barreled like that.  I’ll definitely head back to P-Pass again. The place is just so mental!”

Dylan Longbottom

Dylan’s no stranger to the infamous P-Pass, scoring the cover on ASL’s first trip to this Pacific playground a few years back. Since then Dyl’s been a regular visitor, but this trip outshone all others.

“I was so stoked to go back, it’s one of my favourite waves in the world. This time we had a really good crew, and there was a really good vibe surrounding the whole place.

When we first got there we were a bit worried that the swell wasn’t going to hit, but by the time we woke up the next day it was bullshit. It was probably the best I have ever had it. It’s hard to say, because it sorta reaches a size, then from there, just gets thicker, but I think this trip was the biggest I have ever had it.

“This trip the swell was just hitting it right on the sweet spot. For how gnarly it looks from the outside, the wave is actually really easy to surf. There’s a spot on the reef, and if you sit right there, it just lets you roll into it without much fuss. From there it’s just a bottom turn, line it up, hold your ground and get tubed for five seconds (laughs). When it’s in that 6-8 feet range (like it was this time), it’s just this perfect hole.”

“Surfing with Jamie was unreal. I had only had a couple of other sessions in the water with him previously, so it was good to spend some time together and learn more about him. We fed off each other in the surf, pushed each other into some big ones and generally just had an awesome time. He was awesome to go on a trip with.”

Joni Gillet

With that name you’d peg him as a mafia king-pin, but the only thing this bloke puts hits on is dredging monsters. The Burleigh Heads local works as a sales rep for Rhythm clothing and sold his ring out to meet budget and be granted a leave pass so he could make this trip. Was it worth the hassle?

“My trip started as a bit of a nightmare. I was under the gun at work as it was our last week of selling for the season and I had to get shit done before I got the nod to leave from the boss. Once I finally got going, I turned up at Cairns Airport ready to get my connecting flight, and as the chick at the counter saw Hippo and I approaching I swear I could see dollar signs in her eyes.

They stung us $150 per board, and Hippo started losing it because he had five boards with him. To top it off, it was 24 hours travelling to get there with all the stopovers and island hopping and shit, it was just nuts.

Coming home wasn’t much better, our flight back into Cairns was at Midnight, and the flight from Cairns to the Gold Coast wasn’t until seven the next morning. No one had organised accom or anything, so we were just left to crash on the floor of the airport. Shieldsy and Dyl knew what was coming and snaked a few blankets from the plane so they were nice and warm. Hippo took all his boards out of his board bag and slept in that, and I managed to freeze with one crappy airplane blanket. It was pretty funny. It was all totally worth it in the end though. It was easy the best waves of my life.

When we first got there it was windy and everyone was freaking out that the swell wasn’t going to hit. After the nightmare travel and expense of getting boards there we were really starting to shit ourselves. The next morning it had cleaned up a bit but it was kinda hard to tell how big it was. Zahn paddled into the first big bomb that came through and just got licked! For how big it was, it was pretty fun. Man, it was just so perfect. Thank god it went flat; otherwise I’d still be there. (laughs)”

From: michael cherry

Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: pipe dreams

 Hey Guys,

 ************

Tom Innes

Thanks for inviting me along. This has been one of the best trips I have ever been on. We scored good waves every day. That right-hander Sonden's on the big day blew my mind. I wish I had my 6'8" on the boat so we could have had a go at some of the 10-12 foot bombs. The beetle nut was a memorable experience along with the hazard control chicks. Loving the Sakau and vodka deadly.
Tom Innes

Ian "Wooly" Macpherson West Aus.

Cheers Allois and Chris had a great trip, plenty of things to do. P-pass looks amazing and the few moments it came to life was sick. One good barrel made my trip and all my mates that are here with me. Food was good if not great. Weather was sick pretty much the whole time. Thanks guys you have done a great job. Stoked to have been here.
Ian "Wooly" Macpherson West Aus.

An epic adventure to the heart of Palikir. Looking out more than in. Riding fast and high, exploding ocean warping by… some of the best barrels of my life……. Stoked. Thanks boys. Keep it up
Kierren Perrow

Thanks for the great time. Didn't get much surf- it didn't reach the high waves of the prior epic sessions but it was a fun wave the whole time. The hikes to the ruins, gun emplacements, waterfalls, and fishing added a whole other layer of things to do. The larger falls are some of the best I've ever seen. I'll be back
Jeff Divine

Amazing place you have here guys. Never ran out of things to do. P pass is perfect. Can't wait to come back and get it with some more size. Stay away from Allois. He is a creepy man, nah LEGEND. Chris and Sonden all top guys. I will be back for more perfect barrels and big pits. Adios.
Simon Ormerod

That P-pass wave is a piece of shit. Wish it would barrel, ha kidding. The best wave I have ever surfed and the afternoon beers don't taste any better. Cheers.
Beau "Naughty" Emmerton

Been around the world a million times. Seen the best waves in the world but this trip was one of the best. P-Pass is fucking sick at two feet or eight to ten the place unbelievable. To all the boys at the camp … great work.
Gary Kong Elkerton

Just had the best surf trip of my life. Insanely sick barrels, great crew, and great people. Thanks for giving us a taste of paradise. Allois and Chris, Sonden, Biro and Roro - you guy's rock.
Donny Valenzuela

Thanks to all the boys; Allois, Chris, Sonden, Biro and Roro. The trip of my life. Best barrels and best time ever. Can't wait to see you all soon.
Chris "Roots" Ruotolo.

We scored six to eight foot P- pass. Everyone calling it their best day of surfing ever. Thank you Allois and Chris and the boat boys. I'll be back
Andrew Shield

Thanks Allois and Chris.
Surfed some of the most perfect waves of my life. The most tubes I have ever had on a trip that's for sure. Thanks again to Fred and the boys. This island is paradise.
Brenden Margieson

Most epic session ever.
P- pass is by far the best right in the world
Dylan Longbottom

Thanks for all the hospitality and the most fun I've ever had at a surf camp with a flat spell…. Never laughed so much in my life. Good on ya crew. I'm going to bed early.
Spider fromCoolum

Allois, Chris, Sonden, Biro, and Roro you guys have shown me something I'll never forget. Thanks you so much. Scored perfect P- pass with only a few guys. Longest and best barrel I've ever surfed. Can't wait to come back. Keep an open room for me if the swell is supposed to be big. I'll be on my way.
Ian Powell

What a fantastic place. P-pass has the perfect setup. Allois, Chris, Sonden, biro and the crew were great.
Rowdy

Date: Monday, June 23, 2008, 8:48 AM

I want to thank you for the best trip of my life!!  I caught the best waves I have ever seen and the trip of a lifetime really held up to it's expectations.  As you know I was in Pohnpei for a total of 8 days and surfed for 6.  Just swell after swell.  The hospitality of the locals was unmatched by any other place I have been too.  Not to mention the insane fishing that we also did.  I have never been fishing and caught something in less than 1 minute of getting the lines wet.  Unreal.  The second day I was there we went to Ant atoll as we were waiting for the swell to arrive.  We caught a Wahoo on the way, and then went snorkeling on a reef that was thriving with marine life.  Saw a black tip swimming below us and all kinds of tropical fish as well.  After we snorkeled we went to a deserted beach, started a fire and cooked the Wahoo.  Just like the show survivor.  Had a few cold beers and just floated in the bluest water I have ever seen.  After that I thought this is the most perfect day I have ever had and we didn't even surf yet!!  After relaxing on the beach we left Ant and headed to pass to see if the swell was early.  Luckily it was and I got a barrel on my very first wave.  We surfed for 3 hours then headed back to the camp for dinner.  The next day the swell fully arrived and it was insane.  4 foot overhead + and no wind.  It was one reeling barrel after barrel.  I had never seen anything like it.  I surfed three sessions and we stayed all day.  During the trip I took a total of 600+ pictures in between sessions and had just as much fun watching the waves as I did surfing them.  As you know I traveled by myself and was a little apprehensive about that.  It didn't matter because I met some of the coolest people on earth and still keep in touch with all of them by email.  Aussies, Brazilians, Americans, and a US soldier that came from Iraq .  There were all different types of people and every one of them I consider a friend.  If anyone is out there looking for a trip and wants to surf perfect un-crowded waves book it now!!  Palikir is an awesome wave that breaks just like all the pictures and videos show.  I came all the way from NJ and would leave again tomorrow if I could.  Thanks for helping me realize a dream that I have always wanted.  All surfers want that same thing, perfect unspoiled waves that break for ever.  Palikir is that wave and you will find it is worth every cent.  I could go on for hours about the trip (my friends know this because I talk about it almost daily) but I will keep it short.  Thanks again, I can't wait to go back!!